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Monday
Jul302012

The Heritage of Wine 

As I was scheduling meetings with my wine sales reps for The Boarding House, it dawned on me that I’ve been really lucky to have a surprising number of the same people call on me for the past decade. They’ve seen the evolution of my palate, they know what types of wines get me excited and more importantly, we’ve become really good friends over the years. Danny Klieman from Heritage Wine Cellars has been calling on me since my days at Everest and I just absolutely adore him. He has a tremendous amount of passion for the wines he represents, and more often than not, his infectious enthusiasm is well warranted.

I’ve had a number of meetings with Danny but the following is what we tasting during round one for The Boarding House:

NV Adami Garbèl Prosecco DOC, Treviso, Italy -- the late Adriano Adami followed his father into winemaking and his sons have gone on to do the same. Brothers Armando and Franco are both trained oenologists making Prosecco in the Valdobbiadene zone of the eastern Veneto. The Adami family have owned their vineyards here since 1920.  Franco Adami was the former president of the consortium of producers that is responsible for creating and administering the D.O.C.G. regulations. They make several types of Prosecco including single cru bottlings of Cartizze and Vigneto Giardino but the Garbèl is their entry-level style. Garbèl in the ancient local dialect means "crisp and dry". With close to 13 g/l of residual sugar, this is slightly off dry with notes of peaches, melons and fresh apples. Moderate+acidity, soft mousse and pleasant peach fruit driven finish.

2011 Palliser Estate Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, New Zealand -- Situated just 1.5 hours drive from Wellington, New Zealand’s capital city, Martinborough is perfect for day trips to Wairarapa wine country. Martinborough was established in 1879 and was named after farmer, John Martin. Wairarapa consists of three sub-regions - Martinborough, Gladstone and Masterton but Martinborough is the most established and most widely recognized. The entire region is defined by the western Tararua Range and the Ruamahunga River, which runs through all three regions, starting in the north in Masterton, through Gladstone and continuing past Martinborough. Palliser Estate was part of the first wave of wineries to become established in the winegrowing region of Martinborough, with their first plantings in 1984. Since 1991 winemaker and vineyard manager Allan Johnson has taken a very holistic approach with his winemaking style. Palliser was the first in the area to receive ISO status for their environmental management. This includes controlling winery waste, ensuring packaging materials are recyclable and promoting sustainable methods of pest management and weed control. Pale straw color with hints of green. Aromas of tomato leaf, passion fruit, grapefruit, bell pepper and green herbs. Flavors of passion fruit, lime zest and crushed minerals on the palate with moderate+acid, lively, fresh, clean finish.

2011 Pewsey Vale Vineyard Riesling, Eden Valley Australia
-- High in the hills surrounding the Barossa Valley lies Pewsey Vale, Eden Valley's first vineyard. In 1847, its founder Englishman Joseph Gilbert planted a one-acre vineyard, the first in Eden Valley and one of Australia's first high altitude, cool climate vineyards.  The cooler temperatures found at this height encourage a longer ripening period which extends well into autumn. Louisa Rosa is the Pewsey Vale wine maker as well as being responsible for all the white wines in the Yalumba portfolio. This is a classic example of dry Eden Valley Riesling. Pale straw color with green hues, aromas of lemon-lime fruit, minerals, white flowers and herbs. The palate is dry with flavors of lime, citrus fruit and limey minerals on the finish. Moderate+ to high acidity.

2010 Santa Barbara Chardonnay, Santa Barbara
-- Owner Pierre Lafond has the distinction of starting Santa Barbara Winery in 1962, the first post-Prohibition winery in the county. In 1998 construction began on Lafond Winery, with son David Lafond as general contractor and Pierre Lafond as Architect. Winemaker Bruce McGuire has been with the family since 1981. For this Chardonnay, McGuire sourced fruit from six different vineyards throughout western Santa Barbara County. Pale gold color, nose shows lemon custard, baked apples, and quince. Well-balanced on the palate with moderate acidity, tropical fruits but not a lot of nuttiness.

2009 Molnar Family Wines Poseiden’s Vineyard Chardonnay, Carneros -- Nicholas Molnar “discovered” Napa Valley in the late 1960’s and was immediately reminded of his homeland in Hungary (from which he had just managed to escape Communist rule in 1956). He began buying land and developing vineyards throughout Napa Valley. In 1973, he developed Poseidon's Vineyard, in the Carneros appellation of Napa. For over 30 years they have been supplying grapes to wineries such as Joseph Phelps, Heitz Cellars, Sterling, Pride Mountain, Acacia, and Mumm Napa Valley. In 2003, Nicholas’ sons teamed up with wine maker Michael Terrien, formerly of Acacia and Hanzell, to produce Molnar Family Wines. Pale gold color, aromas of caramel, butterscotch, vanilla, lemons and baking spice. Moderate acid on the palate, soft and creamy texture, clove spice and lemons on the finish. Aged in 100% Kádár Tokaj oak.

2009 Flowers Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast -- Flowers was founded by nursery owners Walt and Joan Flowers as a way to combine their love of wine with their passion for agriculture. They found their property through a three-line classified ad in Wine Spectator before the region became well known for Pinot Noir. In 1989 Walt and Joan purchased 321 acres, including a ridge top, high above the Pacific Ocean on the northern Sonoma Coast and became pioneers in the area. They planted a vineyard and originally sold grapes to Kistler before starting their own winery in 1994. Today, Flowers Winery produces Chardonnay and Pinot Noir from its two estate properties, Camp Meeting Ridge Vineyard and Sea View Ridge Vineyard, as well as select vineyards in the coolest regions of the Sonoma Coast AVA.  In 2009, the winery formed a partnership with Huneeus Vintners, owner of Quintessa in Napa Valley and Veramonte in Chile. I’ve always been a huge fan of Flowers and featured them on my wine list at Everest but I recall the Chardonnay was vastly different back then. This is much leaner and more mineral driven on the palate with less butter and oak. Pale gold color, notes of pineapple, apples, quince and spice. Palate shows moderate+acid, lemon curd and slight hazelnut notes with a bright and vibrant finish.

2010 Vasse Felix Chardonnay Margaret River, Australia -- Founded in the mid-1960’s, Vasse Felix was the first commercial vineyard and winery to be established in the Margaret River region of Western Australia. Margaret River is positioned on a cape, where it is surrounded by ocean on three sides. The natural sea breeze and current systems from the Indian and Southern oceans help regulate the seasonal temperatures, reducing extreme cold and heat within the vineyards. Winemaking at Vasse Felix is led by Chief Winemaker Virginia Willcock. Pale gold color with green hues. Nose shows lime zest, tart green apples and mineral. Palate is fresh and zippy with a light and lean texture. Flavors of apples, limes, minearals and moderate+acidity.

2009 Paraiso Santa Lucia Pinot Noir, Monterey -- Coming from Monterey, Paraiso was a well known name around town. The vineyard and winery are owned by the Smith Family who have been grape farmers in Monterey for over 30 years. Paraiso’s 400-acre estate vineyard lies at the southern end of the Santa Lucia Highlands AVA in Monterey County, California. Winegrape pioneers of the region, Rich and and his wife Claudia Smith began planting this property in 1973. Today, Rich and his son Jason manage almost 150,000 vines in 16 different blocks. Black cherry color, garnet edge. Aromas of black cherries, licorice, baking spice and a slight vegetal note. Juicy palate shows moderate acidity, low tannins and flavors of sour cherries and raspberries.

2009 Bethel Heights Pinot Noir, Willamette Valley --The property now known as Bethel Heights Vineyard was originally platted in 1909 and recorded under the name Bethel Heights Walnut Groves. A number of the original walnut trees are still flourishing around the edges of the vineyard. The first vines were planted at Bethel Heights in 1977, in the Eola Hills of Oregon’s Willamette Valley by twin brothers, Ted and Terry Casteel, and their partners, Pat Dudley and Marilyn Webb. In 1984 they produced their first commercial vintage of 3000 cases. The Bethel Heights Estate and Justice Vineyards provide the core of this blend. Black cherry color, garnet edge. Aromas of black cherries, chalky minerals and raspberries. Concentrated on the palate with moderate acidity, low-to-moderate tannins. Flavors of black cherries, plums, orange zest, spices and raspberry with a distinct chalky mineral finish.

2010 Patricia Green Estate Pinot Noir, Ribbon Ridge AVA, Oregon -- One of the most highly sought after wines in Oregon, Patricia Green Cellars almost deserves a “cult status” because of the notorious Patty Green and her partner Jim Anderson.  The winery, itself, is located in the Ribbon Ridge district of Yamhill County on the 52 acre estate purchased in 2000 by Patty and Jim. Ribbon Ridge is a sub-appellation of the Willamette Valley AVA that sits 22 miles southwest of Portland, 4 miles northwest of Dundee, and 40 miles east of the Pacific Ocean. Ribbon Ridge is contained within the larger Chehalem Mountains AVA - which is contained with the Willamette Valley AVA. Red cherry color, pink edge. Aromas of sour cherries, mushrooms and forest floor. Juicy and bright and on the palate with flavors of black cherries, raspberries and red apples. Moderate+acidy, moderate tannins showing with slight grippiness.

2010 Bodegas Triton Tridente, Mencia, Castilla Y Leon, Spain -- The Gil Family Estates initiated this project in order to preserve the natives grapes of Castilla and Leon – Tinta de Toro, Prieto Picudo and Mencia. The 50 year-old Mencia vineyards are located in the territory of Bierzo in the province of Leon. Black plum color, magenta rim. Notes of ripe raisins, figs and a Port wine like fruit forwardness. Concentrated rich fruitiness in the mouth with flavors of raisinated plums and figs. Moderate tannins, moderate acid and fleshy mouth-feel.

2011 Tablas Creek Patelin de Tablas Rouge, Paso Robles -- Tablas Creek Vineyard is the result of a decades-long friendship between the Perrin Family of Château de Beaucastel and Robert Haas longtime importer and founder of Vineyard Brands. The families created a partnership in 1985 and in 1989 purchased a 120-acre property in the hilly Las Tablas district of west Paso Robles for its similarities to Châteauneuf du Pape: limestone soils, a favorable climate, and rugged terrain. Tablas Creek is the only winery in California to produce Rhone style wines from true French cuttings. The Tablas Creek Vineyard Patelin de Tablas is a blend of four red Rhône varietals: Syrah, Grenache, Mourvèdre and Counoise and incorporates fruit from seven top Rhône vineyards in Paso Robles. Black cherry color, magenta rim. Flavors of black plums, black pepper, violets and spice. Moderate tannins, low to moderate acidity, fresh, juicy and quite tasty!

2009 Buil and
Giné, Giné Giné, Priorat, Spain -- The Priorat DOCa is located in the southwest of Catalonia is home to some of Spain’s richest, most concentrated red wines. Carthusian monks established a monastery or “priory” on the spot, which was called Priorat de Scala Dei, the Priory of the Staircase of God.  Garnacha and Cariñena are the traditional varietals of the region, struggling to achieve even small yields in the rock-strewn schist soils of the region. In 1996 the Buil & Giné family decided to return to wine making in Priorat. Both their grand and great-grand parents had been wine makers and merchants. In the spring of 1998 they introduced their first wine, Giné Giné 1997. The wine's name consists of their grandfathers' two last names. 40% Red Grenache & 60% Carignan. Black plum with magenta rim. Aromas of leather, tar, smoke, ink & minerals. Very concentrated on the palate with moderate acid, moderate tannins. Flavors of ripe black fruits, iron and animal but clean and not leathery.

2009 Juan Gil Monastrell, Jumilla, Spain -- Jumilla wines, produced in the northern part of Murcia, are mostly produced with the Monastrell grape. Monastrell represents over 85% of the vines planted and is the third most widely planted grape in Spain. The Juan Gil winery is located in the heart of the Jumilla country, in the middle of a stretch of land owned by the Juan Gil family. The history of Juan Gil dates back to 1916 when Juan Gil Ximénez (great grandfather of the current generation of Juan Gil) built a small cellar in the city of Jumilla. Black plum color, magenta rim. Aromas of ripe blackberries, vanilla and cloves. Slightly off dry on the palate, lush mouth filling fruit, soft and juicy texture. Low-to-moderate acid, low-to-moderate tannins.

2010 Beckmen Vineyards Cuvee Le Bec Rouge, Santa Ynez Valley -- The son of a cattle buyer, Tom Beckmen spent his childhood working on a local ranch outside of Chicago. He founded Beckmen Vineyards with his son Steve in 1994 and has focused on the cultivation of his estate vineyards including Purisima Mountain Vineyard, a world-class winegrowing site, and the source of some of North America's most highly prized Rhone varietal wines. The Cuvee Le Bec is made from a blend of 44% Syrah, 34% Grenache, 13% Mourvèdre and 9% Counoise. Red plum color, pink edge. Aromas of black plums, raspberries, black pepper & roasted beets. Moderate acidity and tannins on the palate, ripe silky black fruit flavors, dried herbs with a hint of clove.

2009 Decero Malbec, Remolinos Vineyard, Agrelo, Mendoza, Argentina -- Decero which means “from scratch” is a winery owned by Thomas Schmidheiny. I had an opportunity to visit the estate a few years ago and I can report that no expense was spared in its construction. It was glistening with modern architectural detail and shiny wine making equipment. The vineyard at the estate is named “Remolinos” after the tiny whirlwinds in the area that thread their way along the vines, keeping the grapes dry and in perfect condition. The 110 hectare estate located in the sub-region of Agrelo was planted in 2000 to Malbec, Cabernet Sauvignon, Petit Verdot and Tannat. All the Decero wines come from this single vineyard. Black/blue color, magenta rim. Concentrated flavors of  black plums, mocha, violets, vanilla and licorice. Moderate+tannins on the palate, low acidity. Ripe and intense concentrated flavors of candied black plums and mocha but shows some restraint on the finish.

2009 Decero Cabernet Sauvignon, Remolinos Vineyard, Mendoza, Argentina -- Black plum fruit, pink rim. Black plums, blackberries, licorice and spice. Very well balanced on the palate, moderate tannins, low acidity. Flavors of dark berries and licorice. Delicious Cabernet Sauvignon, especially for the price.

2010 Errazuriz Carmenere Single Vineyard Don Maximiano Estate, Anconcagua Valley, Chile -- Don Maximiano Errázuriz founded Viña Errázuriz in 1870 in the Valle de Aconcagua, 100 kms north of the capital city, Santiago. Recognizing that this valley, was ideal for growing grapes, he became a pioneer in the region. Today, the tradition of quality lives on with Don Maximiano’s descendant, Eduardo Chadwick. Eduardo is the fifth generation of his family to be involved in the wine business. Carmenere can be overly vegetal sometimes with excessive notes of bell pepper and a smell that I can only describe as bug spray. This is one of the better Carmeneres I’ve had. Black plum color, pink edge. Slight green vegetal component but just enough to make it interesting. Palate is supported by generous ripe fruit and notes of black olives. Moderate+tannins & moderate acidity.

2009 Anheuser Schlossbockelheimer Konigsfels Riesling Kabinett, Nahe -- At the end of the 19th Century, Rudolf Anheuser became the first grower in the Nahe region to start the cultivation of vineyards planted solely with Riesling. Today, the 13th generation owns and manages the estate. And in case you’re wondering, indeed, one of the Anheusers immigrated to the States to start brewing beer in St.Louis and we all know how that turned out. Schlossböckelheim is a village in the Upper Nahe and has two vineyards that have been classified by the VDP as Erste Lage – Kupfergrube and Felsenberg. The Konigsfels vineyard is known to produce racy Rieslings and this wine shows some of it. Pale gold color, aromas of honey and green apple. Off-dry palate shows a bit more development with notes of lemon peel, green apple and slight note of caramel. Moderate+acid.

2011 Georg Albrecht Schneider Niersteiner Paterberg Riesling Kabinett, Rhinehessen
-- The estate has been owned by the Schneider family for 7 generations.The family owns 15 hectares of vineyards in the town of Nierstein, including holdings in the Roter Hang (Pettenthal, Oelberg and Hipping). Pale gold color with green hues. Aromas of green apples, peaches, pineapples, honey and crushed minerals. Off-dry to sweet on the palate, juicy tropical fruit notes, high acidity. Very fresh and juicy.