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Friday
Aug102012

At the end of the Winebow 

Quite often, it’s the little things that people do that make the biggest impression. Freddy Brown ends his emails with “Peace”. It’s a small gesture yet it represents so much about him. I recently told Freddy that I could never see him working with a wine company if he didn’t truly appreciate and love the selections in his portfolio. For Freddy, it’s not just about selling but rather, he enjoys sharing the stories of the people and history behind the wines. When you enjoy what you do, you’re at peace and it’s only natural for you to want to pay that sentiment forward.

Freddy represents the wines from Winebow, Inc., an importer of premium Italian wines in the United States, and a major importer and distributor of wines, spirits and sake from around the world.

We went through a few selections from the portfolio and here are my notes. It was a very hot afternoon so we focused solely on sparkling and white wines.

NV Zardetto Rose, Veneto, Italy -- Located in the heart of the famous Prosecco territory between Conegliano and Valdobiadene, Zardetto has been making sparkling wines for more than 40 years. Raboso is a red grape variety grown in the Veneto region of northeast Italy. The name is thought to derive from the Italian rabbioso, or angry, presumably in reference to the taster’s reaction to the high acidity and rough tannins that characterize the grape. Light pink in color with  flavors of strawberries. Sweet and cotton candy like on the palate.

NV Meyer Fonne Cremant d'Alsace Brut Extra -- Félix Meyer is the third generation in his family to make wine since his grandfather founded the domaine in the late 19th century. He is considered a rising star in Alsace. Even though he has modernized the winemaking process, Felix still believes in the old way of doing things. He ages his wines on the lees in large, older foudres, as is the customary tradition in Alsace. Blend of 60% Pinot Auxerrois 20% Chardonnay 15% Pinot Blanc
5% Pinot Noir.  Pale green color. Aromas of crisp green apples, lime zest, citrus notes. High percentage of Chardonnay in the blend. Tart and tangy on the palate. Would be good with crispy chicken.

NV Spiropoulos Ode Panos Brut Organic, Mantineia, Greece -- According to Apostolos Spiropoulos, “Mantineia should easily be the Champagne region of Greece. It’s not surprising that the other great sparkling wine, Domaine Tselepos’ Amalia Brut is also a Mantineia [moschofilero].” Made from 100% Moschofilero. Pale straw color. Muscat like floralness in the nose. Cotton candy like quality with sweetness on the finish.

NV Szigeti Gruner Veltliner Brut, Austria -- Modern day Szigeti (pronounced ZIG-it-ee) was born when brothers Norbert and Peter Szigeti returned to their hometown of Gols in 1990 to take over the family business. They make sparkling wines using the traditional method. Aromas of green apple, soft petillant like quality to the mousse, citrus zest and earthy notes.

NV Philipponnat Royale Reserve Brut Champagne -- Philipponnat is owned by the Boizel Chanoine Champagne group, run by influential Champagne businessman Bruno Paillard, which also controls the Lanson and Besserat de Bellefon brands. After Paillard acquired the property from French spirits company Marie Brizard, Charles Philipponnat and his family were able to restore control of the house, whose most revered asset is the steeply sloped Clos des Goisses, a south-facing riverbank parcel in Mareuil-sur-Ay that produces some of Champagne’s most boldly structured and longest lived wines. The Royale Reserve is Philipponnat’s entry level NV Brut. Pale gold color. Aromas of toast, roasted nuts, dried caramel and brioche. Palate shows a more oxidative style with flavors of buttery brioche.

NV Fleury Carte Rouge, Champagne -- Fleury was founded by Jean-Sebastien’s great-grandfather in 1895 and is located in the Côtes de Bar, in the south of the Champagne region. In 1929, during the depression, grape prices were so low that Robert Fleury decided to take the then unusual step of bottling his own Champagne. Champagne Fleury’s conversion to biodynamics in 1989 was at the hands of Jean-Sébastien’s father, Jean-Pierre. They were the first in the region to do so. 100% Pinot Noir. Aromas of marzipan and toasted almonds. Nutty but fresh on the palate with a distinct earthiness on the finish. Vibrant acidity.

2010 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, Loire Valley -- Gerard and Daniel Vinet run the well-known estate of Quilla in the village of La Haie Fouassiere. Domaine de la Quilla is made from an assemblage from their entire property. They also produce a single vineyard Clos de la Houssaie. Pale straw color. Fresh green apple aromas with almonds, honeysuckle and crushed minerals in the nose. Light but softly layered on the palate with notes of almonds and fresh melons. Aged sur lie for 8 months.

2011 Chateau Les Arromans Entre-deux-Mers, France
-– Jean Duffau founded this estate in 1965.  Made from a blend of 50% Semillon and 50% Sauvignon Blanc. Pale straw color with green hues. Aromas of green bell pepper, fresh herbs and lime zest. Fresh, simple and clean on the palate.

2010 FX Barc Complices de Loire Touraine Sauvignon Pointe D'Agrumes, Loire Valley -- Francois-Xavier Barc partnered with winemakers who share his philosophy and passion for wine to create Complices de Loire and to highlight Loire Valley appellations such as Saint-Nicolas-de-Bourgeuil, Bourgeuil, Chinon, Saumur-Champigny and Touraine. Pale straw color with green hue. Aromas remind me of NZ Sauvignon Blanc with notes of passion fruit and grapefruit. Fresh, bright and clean on the palate with flavors of lime zest, green herbs and minerals. Moderate+acidity.

2010 Domaine de Reuilly Reuilly, Pierres Plates, Loire Valley
–- When tasting the wines of Denis Jamain, it is clear that the appellation of Reuilly, in the eastern Loire, is experiencing a renaissance, moving far beyond its former status as the “poor man’s Sancerre.” Reuilly is an ancient winemaking village that today has only about 300 acres in vines.  The Pierres Plates is from a specific vineyard with Chablis-like soil full of chalk, fossils and sea shells. This Sauvignon Blanc based wines shows aromas of mango skin, tropical fruit notes with green apples. High acidity with limestone minerality – would be delicious with ceviche or shellfish platters.

2010 Fazi Battaglia Verdicchio Titulus, Le Marche Italy -– comes packaged in an emerald green, amphora-shaped bottle. Titulus meaning very simply "title" in Latin remains Fazi Battaglia's most popular wine. This 100% Verdicchio is crafted from fruit grown in a large estate vineyard that is subdivided into 12 distinct parcels based on their elevations and expositions. Pale straw color with green hues. Fairly neutral in the nose but fresh, clean and vibrant on the palate. Quaffable and clean with moderate + acidity.

2011 Gai’A Wild Ferment Assyrtiko, Santorini –- Having had an opportunity to visit this winery a few years ago, a soft spot remains in my heart for the wines of Gai’A.  Gai’A is well known for their stunning Assyrtikos. The Gai’A’s Assyrtiko Wild Ferment uses strictly wild yeast that lives naturally on the skin of the grapes and in the vineyard. Once fermentation takes its course, 20% of the wine is aged in a blend of wood (oak, acacia, etc…) and then blended with 80% stainless steel fermented Assyrtiko. Pale gold color. Aromas remind me of Burgundy – yellow apples, hazelnuts, caramel, crushed rocks and vanilla. Slight nuttiness on the palate but still very lively and vibrant with moderate acidity.

2010 Le Pupille Poggio Argentato Maremma IGT, Itay -- Fattoria Le Pupille, located in the Tuscany region of Italy, is a small estate owned by Elisabetta Geppetti. This wine takes its name from the exposure of the vineyards, which face the Argentario promontory. Once an island in the past, it is now connected to the Tuscan coast and forms a rocky, but scenic peninsula that serves as a symbol of the Maremma. Made from a blend of Traminer and Sauvignon Blanc. Pale straw color. Aromas of ruby red grapefruit, mandarin oranges and citrus oil. Slight pithy, bitter quality on the palate with additional grapefruit flavors. Moderate+acidity, crisp and light bodied.

2010 Mastroberardino Sannio Falanghina, Campania, Italy -- Established in the 1750s by winemaker Pietro di Mastro Berardino, Mastroberardino is Campania’s most renowned winery. Located in the town of Altripalda, the Mastroberardino family’s holdings are spread across several parts of Irpinia. Pale gold color. Aromas of banana skin, smoke and yellow apples. Crushed minerals on the palate with moderate+acidity. Would be excellent with a charred crusted pizza and calamari. Distinct smokiness.

2010 Chateau Grand Traverse Whole Cluster Riesling, Old Mission Peninsula, Michigan -- Chateau Grand Traverse is a Michigan winery located in the Old Mission Peninsula AVA around Traverse City. The winery was founded by Edward O’Keefe Jr. and is notable for having the first large-scale planting of vitis vinifera in Michigan. Chateau Grand Traverse's primary focus is Riesling grapes, with many of the winemakers in the winery's history descending from prominent German wine-producing families in the Mosel and Pfalz regions. Pale gold color. Petrol in the nose, off-dry on the palate with a light bodied texture. Additional flavors of crisp green apples and limes.

2009 Prager Riesling Federspiel Steinriegl, Wachau, Austria -– Franz Prager, now retired, was a co-founder of the Vinea Wachau association in 1983. His son-in-law, Toni Bodenstein, ushered in a sweeping change at the Prager winery. Bodenstein, a biologist, geologist, historian and, at the time, aspiring winemaker, took an analytical approach and began to identify the effects of different soils and climate conditions on vines. As a result of his work, Prager vinifies Riesling from 8 different vineyards and Gruner from 7. The soil in the Steinriegl vineyard is white silicate marble. Pale gold color. Powerful aromas of tropical fruits, slight flintiness, smoke, bergamot and white flowers. Dry on the palate with moderate+to high acidity, mango skin, honey, green apples and flint.

2011 Rudi Pichler Gruner Veltliner Federspiel, Wachau, Austria –- The Pichler Family has been making wine in the village of Wosendorf since at least the late 19th Century. In the early days, Rudi Pichler was often confused for or overshadowed by the other Pichlers in the area but he has steadily built a reputation for his big powerful wines with concentrated fruit and solid structure. Sourced from selected vineyards in the valley and hillsides throughout the Wachau.  Pale straw color, green hue. Aromas of honey, white pepper, asparagus and lime zest. Dry on the palate with moderate+to high acidity. Lean and racy with limey citrus flavors, crushed minerals and white pepper.

2010 Wieninger Herrenholz Gruner Veltliner, Vienna, Austria -– The Wieninger winery was founded as part of the traditional Viennese heurigen (wine bar) system established in the 18th century. The current owner, Fritz Wieninger, works with classic as well as international varieties (Chardonnay, Pinot Noir). More recently, he has led the revival of varietal field blends (Wiener Gemischter Satz). Fritz is also particularly well known for his red wines. Pale straw color. The sandy vineyard site, Herrenholz is named after the surrounding forest. The soil has a high content of sand and limestone, amounting to low grape yields and slow growth for these thirty year old vines.Aromas of mango skin, flint, citrus oil and peaches. Dry on the palate with notes of spices, white pepper, citrus and moderate+to high acidity.

2011 Wieninger Gemischter Satz, Vienna, Austria –- Gemischter Satz can be made from as many as 13 different varieties at one time, yet here the most significant contributions are made by Grüner Veltliner, Weissburgunder, Welschriesling, and Chardonnay.  Hints of spice and floral aromas derive from the small contributions of many other traditional grape varieties in the blend -- Riesling, Rotgipfler, Zierfandler, Sylvaner, Traminer, Neuberger and others. Pale straw color. Aromas of pineapples, vanilla, tropical fruits and peaches. Dry on the palate with juicy vibrant acidity. Flavors of apricots, peaches and white pepper.

2011 Mas des Bressades Blanc, Vin de Pays du Gard, France -- Mas des Bressades is considered by many as the top estate in Costières de Nîmes, located 35 miles southwest of Châteauneuf-du-Pape, on the western side of the Rhône. It is run by Cyril Marès and his lovely wife Natalie Blanc, who owns the adjacent estate, Mas Carlot. This wine is made from roughly 55% Viognier and 45% Roussanne which is aged completely in barrel; 80% new oak and 20% 1 year old. Pale gold color. Aromas of candied ginger, pineapple and nutmeg. Moderate acidity on the palate with brown spices, quince, baked apples, ginger and pears. Would be excellent with roasted root vegetables or Asian dishes.

2010 Clos La Roquete Chateauneuf-du-Pape Blanc, France -- In September 1986, René Laugier wanted to retire but had no successors to take over La Roquette so he sold the domaine to Daniel and Frédéric Brunier of Vieux Telegraphe. The Brunier brothers farm the La Crau plateau, which boasts some of the most challenging vineyard terrain and most pedigreed soils of Châteauneuf. La Roquète’s three largest vineyards are all situated on prime real estate along the Piélong plateau. This is a blend of 35% Clairette
, 30% Grenache Blanc, 25% Roussanne, 10% Bourboulenc. Pale gold color. Aromas of yellow apple skins, white flowers, lemon curd, toasted chestnut and brioche. Moderate acidity on the palate with a richly layered texture and flavors of crushed minerals. Lots of savory umami flavors.  

2009 Laurent Kraft Vouvray, Loire Valley -- Domaine des Lauriers has belonged to the Kraft family for 7 generations now. Laurent Kraft took over the 3.5-hectare estate in 1992, and now owns 19 hectares, planted on the banks of the Loire River, where Laurent practices sustainable agriculture. 90% of the vines are between 30 and 90 years of age. Pale gold color. Aromas of lime zest, honeysuckle, green apples and straw. Moderate + acidity, dry on the palate with flavors of yellow and green apples.